Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is a small coastal town on the Caribbean Sea, surrounded by the lush tropical rainforest, gorgeous white sand beaches, and a vast array of different wildlife. Puerto Viejo offers a diverse and multicultural vibe with a mixture of Afro-Caribbean, Bribri Indigenous, Latinos, Americans, and Europeans. Famous for its ‘Go Slow’ attitude, you won’t find a more laid-back town in Costa Rica.

Puerto Viejo is not for everyone. You won’t find any golf courses, marinas, or country clubs. Only a handful of hotels offer amenities like swimming pools or air conditioning that are standard in hotels in Guanacaste and other more-developed areas. Although several beautiful, high-end hotels in the area, Puerto Viejo is more suited for the down-to-earth traveler looking for a no-frills, authentic experience. If that's what you are looking for, Puerto Viejo will exceed your expectations.

The melting pot that is Puerto Viejo shows in its restaurants. Everything from fine dining options with exquisite international cuisine to local ‘sodas’ offering fresh ‘mariscos’ (shellfish) is available. Puerto Viejo is one of the friendliest locales in Costa Rica, where party-goers, surfers, and passersby mingle at the beach by day and come night. Many bars offer Caribbean beats for never-ending fun.

Puerto Viejo is still considered an off-the-beaten-track, authentic destination where the local community wishes to keep maintaining its roots and beautiful, unique ambiance and environment.

The area’s climate is very unpredictable, but one thing is sure: it is often said that when the rest of Costa Rica is rainy, it’s time to head out to the dry Caribbean. Therefore, the best months to visit Puerto Viejo are February to April and August to October.

Regarding the August to October timeframe, it's worth mentioning that elsewhere in Costa Rica - on the Pacific coast, for example - it's rainy. So if you want a sunny beach to relax on in Costa Rica during August, September, and October, then the Caribbean coast and Puerto Viejo are perfect options.

Surfers coming to Puerto Viejo should know that the best waves are from January to April - that's when the famous Salsa Brava is seriously popping.

The first thing to know about Puerto Viejo and the southern Caribbean coast of Costa Rica is that it's wet. It can rain at any time of the year in this country and certainly does. You can see it reflected in the area's lush vegetation.

But that's not to say it rains more in Puerto Viejo than elsewhere. The rainfall is around the same, or even a little less than you'll find on the Pacific side. The difference is the rain on the southern Caribbean coast is spread more evenly throughout the year. While the Pacific has more defined wet and dry seasons, the Caribbean does not.

The most consistent dry months in Puerto Viejo, the months with the slightest rain, tend to be September and October. But, conversely, July and December are the wettest months.

As far as temperatures go, like the rest of coastal Costa Rica, they're consistent year-round. Expect temperatures around the early-to-mid 80s F (late 20s/early 30s C) and high humidity.

The Caribbean side of Costa Rica has a bad reputation for crime. We can't sugarcoat that in any way. But here's the thing. The reputation you hear about doesn't often match the reality. Many of those saying how dangerous the Caribbean side is are talking about the city of Limon and not a beach town like Puerto Viejo. And, for the most part, the loudest voices have never made the journey over to this part of the country.

That said, it's worth remembering that Puerto Viejo is a party town, and visitors should take care at night. The usual precautions apply, like not being alone, not getting too drunk, staying away from the seedier activities, and leaving valuables in your hotel. Don't flash jewelry or cell phones, and be aware of your surroundings. Do all that, and you'll be fine. You'll have nothing but positive memories of Puerto Viejo.

Another precaution to take in Puerto Viejo is while swimming or surfing. The Salsa Brava surf break is no joke, and if you're not an expert surfer, you have no business being out in it. It's a reef break, too, and you'll see surfers wearing helmets to protect themselves. You should too.

Cafe Rico: Puerto Viejo's top breakfast spot and perhaps one of the friendliest restaurants.

Como en la Gloria: On Playa Cocles, Como en la Gloria is an upscale restaurant with a Mediterranean twist. Reservations recommended.

Soulsurfer: Great sandwiches and wraps and maybe the best burgers in Costa Rica?

Port Vell: Another top breakfast place with amazing Gallo Pinto.

Todo es Posible: Everything is exceptional here, from the pasta to the pizza to the seafood!

Juan Santamaria Airport (Airport Code SJO), outside the capital city of San José, is the closest international airport to Puerto Viejo.

From SJO Airport: 144 miles (231 kilometers), about 5 hours.

All Costa Rican Vacations packages include an airport "meet and greet" service and private transfers with English-speaking drivers. This means you're all set when you arrive in-country - just sit back, relax, and our driver will get you to your destination.

If you're planning to drive to Puerto Viejo from the airport, give yourself about five hours of driving time and an hour to arrange your car rental. Make sure you arrive in Costa Rica early enough in the day to not drive at night - something we don't recommend, especially on this route which takes you through the Braulio Carrillo National Park.

Once you have your car, get onto the InterAmerican Highway and head towards San Jose. Before you enter the city, you'll hit a large junction in La Uruca, with signs for Ruta 31, the main ring road. It's a left turn off the highway, which will take you to the main strip of La Uruca. Make sure you have Waze on, as it can get complicated here. Then, take a right, which will take you across the northern suburbs of San Jose to Cinco Esquinas. Keep following the signs for Limon and Ruta 32. Once on Ruta 32, you're home free to the coast.

The road will take you out of the city and towards the Braulio Carrillo National Park. You'll drive through the mountainous cloud forest, but keep an eye on the road as trucks thunder through here, and it can get hairy. Shortly after entering the park, you'll pass through the famous Zurqui road tunnel, which cuts straight through a mountain. As you pass through the park, the elevation will drop, and eventually, you'll leave the park on the Caribbean side of the Continental Divide.

Keep on until you get to the town of Guapiles and pass straight on through (although here's an excellent spot to stop for lunch, too). Soon, you'll pass through the town of Siquirres, and from there, you're really in the Caribbean, with the road surrounded by banana plantations as far as the eye can see on both sides. After a while, you'll hit the coast and the city of Limon. Before heading into the city center, you'll see Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, and Panama signs. Swing a hard right at a restaurant called Doña Nora and follow that road, Ruta 241, all the way down. You'll head inland for a bit, which might be confusing, but stay on the road. Soon, you'll be in the banana fields again, and after the village of Rio Banano, you'll hit the coast.

Now, it's easy. Just keep ongoing. You'll soon pass Cahuita and then the exit to Cahuita National Park. After that, you'll see a black sand beach on your left, and once you see a wrecked ship on shore, swing left, and you're in Puerto Viejo.